#Nelsons milksnake enclosures skin#

You may want to give them a humid hide during this time, so that they don’t have to be exposed in the water dish.

#Nelsons milksnake enclosures skin#

If they are, they may just be soaking to help the skin come off. If the humidity and temperatures are on point, consider whether or not the snake is in shed. Then, ensure that the surface or ambient temperatures are not too warm. :black_circle: My snake is always in its water bowlįirst, check the humidity levels in the enclosure and make sure they are high enough (30-50%). If they have retained multiple layers of shed, give them a bath in shallow, lukewarm water and gently remove it yourself.

A humid hide box or a larger water bowl may help. If given proper humidity and plenty of different textures to rub against while shedding, they should have no problem getting it all off by themselves. :black_circle: My snake isn’t shedding in one pieceĪlways make sure your husbandry is not the problem. If you are concerned that they are not eating because of a health problem, or if they are losing a significant amount of weight, take them to the vet. If they are accepting live prey but not frozen/thawed, try multiple techniques such as braining, scenting, and pre-killing to help switch them over to dead prey. Also ensure that they have proper husbandry check the temperatures and humidity levels, and make sure you are providing plenty of security by utilizing hides and foliage, and covering three of the sides. Newly acquired snakes will often take a few weeks before eating, as moving from place to place causes stress. First, consider how long you’ve owned them. Kingsnakes are usually very enthusiastic eaters. All water used for misting the tank and in the water bowl should be purified or treated, not distilled. :pushpin: The water bowl should be cleaned and refilled daily, and if it empties or becomes soiled with substrate or droppings. Deep clean the enclosure every month or so using a 1:1 mix of white vinegar and water or another reptile-safe disinfectant. The substrate should be changed out according to the instructions by the brand. :pushpin: Unless you have a bioactive setup, spot cleaning of the terrarium should be done whenever feces is spotted. If necessary, a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) can be used instead. Always turn off all lights at night, including black, purple, or red ones, as lights of any color can disrupt their sleep schedule. Natural lighting can provide this, or LED lighting can be used in the enclosure, especially if it includes live plants.

As with most herps, they must be provided with some source of lighting during the day so they can distinguish day from night. Mexican milksnakes do not require UV lighting however, a linear 5-6% UVB light is beneficial and can be utilized, but again, it is not essential. Also avoid heat rocks they are known to overheat very easily and burn animals. :x: Don’t rely on stick-on analog thermometers and hygrometers, as they are notoriously inaccurate. ALWAYS connect all heat sources to a thermostat or dimmer to prevent burns or fires, and so you can control the temperatures. :key: Ambient temperatures should be measured with a digital probe thermometer, and surface temperatures should be measured with an infrared temperature gun. A humid hide box may be provided to aid the shedding process. If the humidity is too high or too low for an extended amount of time, shedding issues or even an upper respiratory infection (URI) can occur. This should be measured with a digital probe hygrometer.

:key: The humidity should be moderate: 30-50%. The ambient temperatures should be 75-80☏ (24-27☌) throughout the enclosure, and may drop a few degrees at night. The surface temperatures above the UTH should be around 85☏ (29☌), and should not drop at night. Make sure the UTH covers at least 1/3, but preferably 1/2, of the floor space. :key: An under-tank heater (UTH) such as a heat mat, heat tape, or heat cable is a good source of warmth for kingsnakes.